2014年11月1日星期六

A few days ago saw a "person" for an exclusive interview with Mark, which is really rare in 2008 after Mark photographed and talked about their own brand of "useless." In fact since July 2008 Marco released "useless" series at Paris haute couture week, in a very long period of time is almost "disappeared", and of course this is the result of her conscious choice. During that interview, the horse can dull tone spoke about her definition of clothes, her insights, her insistence and try. 
In simple terms, the "useless" complete with "fashion" contrary fashion, which is anti-fashion and a sense of low physical in nature. Like Mark said himself: the values ​​behind the design is that, while the "self-seeking simplicity" It is true. Reclusive clothes horse for the visual part of the personal spiritual world, she even think clothes are a living, because the clothes along with the growth of human life, individual life story became the bearer of the carrier, from this perspective, the clothes is a human heart contemplation, but the more ancient clothes more valuable, which is obviously contrary to the doctrine of moderation and fashion consumption moderate. 
In fact, this spirit can be traced back to the early "exceptional" and 2007's "Land Useless" and 2008's "luxury of the poor", the core of the material world is an initiative of the renegade, and rose to pursue rich spiritual world behavior. From the "exceptional" to "useless", but it is Marco designer brand gradually commercialize extreme boredom, so as to maintain independence in the spiritual realm and explore design possibilities. Some have questioned this is true of commercial raw and resist? Or inventive marketing on? In my opinion belong to the former, because the choice is ultimately Mark nature and values ​​of the decision, sincere designer only listen to your heart. And Mark is not "in front of the times turned the bow, bucking the trend," she is just a forerunner of the times. Marco personal two decades trajectory also reflects a designer in a development context and direction of China's fashion industry.
  无用 图片来自网络
  文中提到了马可的朋友MartineLeherpeur,她在“无用”开幕两周后专程来到北京参观无用空间。我与Martine碰巧也认识多年,她是法国MLC时尚咨询公司的创始人,这位慈祥的老太太来往于中法之间,08年马可在巴黎的时装发布她也在现场。对于她来说,形而上的东方文化、有故事的中国设计,有传承的中国手工艺都是她能够理解以及欣赏的。Martine也在一定程度上代表了西方精英知识分子的价值取向,在经历过疯狂而膨胀的消费主义阶段后,他们转而寻找自然主义的,低物质的生活方式,并寻求如何开启精神的至真追求,把欲望的追求维持在一个相对低度,同时兼顾自身核心的价值和身心的平衡。素食主义、“断舍离”生活、一直以来对有别于西方文化的东方文化内核的精神追求;包括更多以人为本,强调节制与可持续的简洁设计等,这些生活方式与喜好都反映了相同的价值观。
  无独有偶,这样的设计理念在不久前的一场纽约发布秀中也得到了响应。由Mary Kate和AshleyOlsen姐妹主理的品牌TheRow在15春夏的纽约时装周上,推出了一个结合了东方主义审美与僧侣服风格的设计系列:整个系列主要以天然生丝为面料,强调轮廓的纯粹性:宽松的A字型长裙扫过小腿肚,优美的长款无袖罩衫,仅以绷带形布块裹住身体或肩部;精简到最低限度的细节,仅以剪裁与面料的质感来表达设计;纯粹的色彩、偶有印有几乎难以察觉的徽章图案的面料,搭配质朴的平底鞋。这一系列以东方式的裹缠形成面料与身体间的自然关系,整体来看优雅、安宁、朴素又复杂。

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